''In Kalamata I introduce myself as an American neo-fascist with a strong
interest in Greek history. Sceptically at first, later with fervour, a
few members of the Golden Dawn invite me to attend meetings. Their
offices tend to be located off main squares, usually in residential
buildings in quiet neighbourhoods. Large Greek flags hang on the walls,
along with news clippings and redrawn maps: Greece in possession of
Skopje and bits of Bulgaria, Greece in possession of northern Turkey,
Greece in possession of Cyprus and southern Albania. Swastikas (‘ancient
Greek symbols’) are everywhere: on pencil-holders, clock faces, a
paperweight. On the walls of a room in Gytheio there are reproductions
of Hitler’s watercolours. Last autumn, two Dawners were gunned down by
Athenian anarchists. Their profiles are pasted on refrigerators and desk
drawers. No one says their names. They are just the Athanatoi, the ‘deathless ones’. Kala palikaria itan, the older Dawners murmur. ‘Those were good lads.’ They cross themselves..''
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